The morning we arrived in Honningsvåg, the weather forecast read: sunrise at 12:00 a.m., sunset at 12:00 a.m. High above the Arctic Circle, the sun neither rises nor sets — a fitting introduction to a journey where the Northern Lights didn’t need chasing. From polar nights and whale-filled fjords to quiet meals of king crab and unexpected detours, this was an Arctic experience shaped as much by timing and place as by preparation.
When I told a friend I was going to Lapland, he joked that I had traveled so much I was starting to invent places. Fair. Lapland sounds imaginary — but north of the Arctic Circle, amid husky safaris, reindeer sleighs, and glowing winter skies, it proves itself breathtakingly real.
On assignment for Travel + Leisure, Tesa Totengco boards PONANT’s Le Commandant Charcot—the world’s only luxury icebreaker—for a winter voyage through Canada’s frozen St. Lawrence. Snowshoeing, dogsledding, and Michelin-level dining redefine exploration. Equal parts adventure and elegance, this is the future of travel in the polar world.
Varanasi is not a place you simply visit — it’s a place that absorbs you. From astrology readings and silk weavers to sunrise prayers on the Ganges, Tesa and her stepson Ryan discover the city where life and death meet in divine harmony. A journey both humbling and unforgettable.
I first visited Bilbao in the 1980s—pre-Guggenheim, pre-Bourdain. While my then-beau rehearsed with the Bilbao Opera, I wandered the city solo. It was gritty, authentic, and entirely unconcerned with charm. When I asked a local where to eat, he shrugged and said simply, “Anywhere.” Not a recommendation, not a list. Just a quiet kind of assurance that wherever I ended up, it would be good.
In June 2024, I was invited for an exclusive pre-opening stay at the fairytale Rosewood Schloss Fuschl, nestled on the shores of Lake Fuschl in Austria’s Salzkammergut region. From hot air ballooning at sunrise to chillout boating at sunset, spa serenity to private Mozart recitals, this three-night preview was pure storybook magic. Here’s a behind-the-scenes look at what makes this soon-to-open Rosewood gem a dream for luxury travelers.
On my third journey to Estonia, I finally stepped beyond Tallinn’s medieval walls and into the quiet beauty of its islands. From a smoked sauna ritual at Pädaste Manor on Muhu Island to climbing the ramparts of a 14th-century citadel on Saaremaa, this trip revealed a soulful side of Estonia few take the time to see. Add in natural skincare, handcrafted woodwork, and a vodka-paired sandwich tasting in Tallinn, and you have a destination that’s both grounding and surprising.
Relais & Châteaux, the epitome of boutique luxury and gastronomic excellence, took me on an unforgettable journey through Brittany and beyond. From the modern elegance of Les Lumière in Versailles to the coastal charm of Domaine de Rochevilaine, and the forest retreat of Domaine de Locguenole, each property offered a unique blend of heritage, comfort, and world-class hospitality. Along the way, I discovered hidden gems like Les Etangs de Corot, Saint James Paris, and Relais Christine—each steeped in charm and character. Whether you're craving Michelin-starred cuisine, serene spas, or unique accommodations (hello, hen house!), Relais & Châteaux delivers moments of unparalleled beauty and indulgence. Ready to explore?
Tucked away in the North Atlantic, the Faroe Islands are a remote paradise for nature lovers and adventurers alike. With more sheep than people, this rugged, green archipelago boasts dramatic cliffs, serene waterfalls, and unspoiled landscapes that feel straight out of a fairy tale. It’s perfect for those seeking solitude and breathtaking hikes, but don’t expect luxury—cozy B&Bs and self-catering cottages are the norm.
Between sampling local brews and savoring fresh salmon or lamb, you can explore the islands by car, boat, or even via impressive subsea tunnels. For a unique cultural experience, share a meal with a Faroese family or explore the capital, Tórshavn, home to Michelin-guide restaurants. If you crave the untouched and undiscovered, the Faroe Islands are calling.
