northern spain

Anywhere Is Good, Part 3: La Rioja

Anywhere Is Good, Part 3: La Rioja

In La Rioja, wine is more than a drink—it’s the rhythm of life. We wandered storied cellars, tasted vintages beside the Ebro River, and lingered over lunches with views of Frank Gehry’s titanium masterpiece. From Calle Laurel’s pintxo magic to watching white horses gallop through a village square, our days were filled with the flavors, landscapes, and quiet wonders that make Rioja unforgettable.

"Anywhere Is Good"

"Anywhere Is Good"

I first visited Bilbao in the 1980s—pre-Guggenheim, pre-Bourdain. While my then-beau rehearsed with the Bilbao Opera, I wandered the city solo. It was gritty, authentic, and entirely unconcerned with charm. When I asked a local where to eat, he shrugged and said simply, “Anywhere.” Not a recommendation, not a list. Just a quiet kind of assurance that wherever I ended up, it would be good.