On assignment for Travel + Leisure, Tesa Totengco boards PONANT’s Le Commandant Charcot—the world’s only luxury icebreaker—for a winter voyage through Canada’s frozen St. Lawrence. Snowshoeing, dogsledding, and Michelin-level dining redefine exploration. Equal parts adventure and elegance, this is the future of travel in the polar world.

From Prague’s cobblestones to Budapest’s ruin bars, my first river cruise aboard AmaWaterways’ AmaMagna was a revelation. Twice the width of a traditional ship, AmaMagna brought us through five countries in seven nights, with spacious suites, flexible excursions, and unforgettable meals. Along the way, I rediscovered Vienna over schnitzel, connected with my Benedictine roots at Melk Abbey, and shopped for treasures from TONAK hats in Prague to embroidered blouses in Bratislava.