For me, Nepal began as a curiosity—a distant land glowing at the edge of my imagination, framed by the snow-capped Himalayas and the gentle sway of prayer flags. I dreamed of seeing Mount Everest and wandering through the mystical streets of Kathmandu. Beyond that? I’ll admit, I didn’t know much. What unfolded was a journey that surprised, humbled, and inspired me. From world-class hospitality to sacred encounters, from smoky skies to soaring flights, Nepal is a place where ancient rhythms meet modern resilience.
Kathmandu’s traffic is famously dense, but what surprised me was the absence of honking—organized chaos flows through the streets in relative calm. I was especially struck by the role women play in Nepali society—not only are they central to family life, but women are also highly visible in business, the arts, tourism, and public leadership. In many ways, they are the quiet force shaping the country’s progress.
Our plans for a safari in Chitwan went up in smoke—literally. Wildfires in the south blanketed the skies, grounding flights and forcing us to reroute to Pokhara (which we loved). But with our return flight to Kathmandu canceled, we found ourselves on a nine-hour drive through darkness, dense traffic, and fire-lined mountain roads. It was harrowing—but our driver’s calm focus never wavered. He got us home safely, a quiet hero in a land full of them.
Here’s our curated guide on where to stay and what to experience on your journey to Nepal.
Where to Stay
Kathmandu – Dwarika’s Hotel
A sanctuary amid the whirlwind of Kathmandu, Dwarika’s Hotel feels less like a hotel and more like a time capsule. It’s a living museum steeped in Newari artistry, where each intricately carved doorway tells a story. The hotel is the legacy of Dwarika Das Shrestha, who began collecting salvaged architectural pieces after seeing locals discard or burn them as firewood. Today, his collection graces the courtyards, suites, and corridors—preserving Nepal’s cultural soul in the most elegant way. With tranquil courtyards and a reverence for tradition, Dwarika’s is the kind of place where even the chaos outside feels poetic.
Pokhara – Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge
Perched high above the Pokhara Valley, this eco-lodge is where you go to breathe deeply, unplug, and fall under the spell of the Annapurnas. Inaugurated by none other than Sir Edmund Hillary—the first man to summit Everest—it carries a quiet gravitas. But let’s talk about the food: hands down, some of the best we had in Nepal. Meals are served family-style, but there’s nothing casual about the care and finesse on display. Every bite was memorable, every mealtime a joy. The hospitality? Warm and effortless. This isn’t just a lodge—it’s a Himalayan haven.
What to Do
Visit Patan City
Patan (Lalitpur) is a stunner—golden rooftops, intricately carved temples, and courtyards that feel like open-air museums. Durbar Square steals the spotlight, but don’t skip the hidden lanes and artisan studios. That’s where I found my healing bowl—not your average sound bowl, but one made of seven sacred metals said to balance your energy and restore harmony. Functional art with a soulful hum.
Pashupatinath Temple
One of the most sacred Hindu temples in the world, Pashupatinath is not just a religious site—it’s an emotional experience. Set along the Bagmati River, it’s where life and death meet with unflinching grace. We watched cremation ceremonies unfold before us: flames rising, families gathered in quiet reverence, rituals performed with ancient precision. It was deeply humbling and profoundly moving.
Boudhanath Stupa
One of the holiest Buddhist sites in the world, Boudhanath is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that exudes peace and devotion. This colossal stupa is the beating heart of Nepal’s Tibetan Buddhist community. You’ll find monks chanting, locals circling the base in silent prayer, and the scent of juniper incense hanging in the air. Rooftop cafés offer the perfect perch to sip tea and take it all in.
Swoyambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple)
With its all-seeing eyes and hillside perch, Swoyambhunath offers some of the best views over Kathmandu—plus a chance to mingle with cheeky monkeys. Equal parts spiritual site and workout (hello, stairs!), it’s a place where Buddhism and Hinduism meet in beautiful harmony.
Everest Mountain Flight
Trekking Everest isn’t for everyone—but luckily, you can still see it in style. We boarded a one-hour scenic flight, unsure it would even take off due to haze from wildfires in the south. Flights the day before were grounded. As luck would have it, we soared above the clouds… just before the airport shut down. We were eventually diverted to a different airport and sat on the tarmac until Kathmandu reopened. Was it inconvenient? Sure. But also completely unforgettable.
Explore Bhaktapur City
Bhaktapur is a time capsule of medieval Nepal—no cars in the old city center, just red brick lanes, towering temples, and artisans at work. It’s where history breathes and every corner is photogenic. Highlights include the 55-Window Palace, Nyatapola Temple, and vibrant street life in the old city center.
Tibetan Village Visit
A visit to a Tibetan refugee camp offers a moving glimpse into resilience and cultural pride. Amid the hum of looms and the scent of yak butter candles, artisans weave intricate carpets and craft handmade goods rooted in centuries-old traditions. I found my tiger rug here—an unforgettable souvenir and a reminder of the spirit and skill that thrives in these communities. It’s more than shopping; it’s a chance to connect with a living legacy.
Pokhara
In Pokhara, dive deeper into their stories at the Gurkha Memorial Museum and the International Mountain Museum—two stops that bring Nepal’s proud legacy of strength and service vividly to life. Sherpas and Gurkhas are Nepal’s living legends. Sherpas, born of the Himalayas, are famed for their mountaineering mastery and spiritual bond with the peaks. Gurkhas, Nepal’s elite soldiers, are celebrated worldwide for their courage and loyalty, having served with distinction in British and Indian forces. Both embody the grit and grace of Nepal.
Where to Eat in Kathmandu and Beyond
We dined at Krishnarpan Restaurant at Dwarika’s Hotel—an immersive culinary experience rooted in Nepalese heritage. This slow dining concept showcases traditional flavors through multi-course meals served in an elegant, ceremonial setting. The service and presentation reflect the hotel’s deep cultural ethos, making it one of the most memorable meals of our trip.
We also had a lovely lunch at Norbulinkha Terrace Restaurant in Boudhanath, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere near the stupa. Dinner was an exceptional experience at Dining Room by Chef Ajay, where contemporary flavors met traditional roots. During our visit to Bhaktapur, lunch at The Nanee was a delightful discovery, blending local ingredients with modern presentation.
Final Reflections
Nepal is full of beautiful contradictions—frenetic yet meditative, ancient yet evolving, modest yet majestic. It’s a land that invites curiosity, rewards patience, and offers perspective in ways few places do. Whether you're chasing peaks or peace, this journey is one you'll carry with you long after your boots are off.
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Photo Credit: Michael Girman & Tesa Totengco