(Czech Republic, Germany, Austria, Slovakia & Hungary)
A First-Time European River Cruise: My Danube Journey on AmaMagna
I just returned from my first European river cruise — seven days sailing the Danube from Vilshofen, Germany to Budapest aboard AmaWaterways’ AmaMagna — and let me tell you, it was a revelation.
I chose AmaMagna because she’s truly one of a kind. Twice the width of traditional European river ships (22 meters vs. the usual 11.5), she feels more like a boutique ocean liner than a riverboat. Our suite had a full balcony and the kind of breathing room you don’t usually associate with river cruising. For someone who has done her fair share of ocean cruises, this felt like a perfect transition.
But before I dive into the highlights, a little background. AmaWaterways is family-owned, founded by three visionaries: Rudi Schreiner (fondly known as the “Godfather of River Cruising”), Kristin Karst, and the late Jimmy Murphy. Their ethos of blending innovation, service, and heartfelt hospitality shines through. Onboard AmaMagna, you feel that difference — it’s luxury with warmth, not pretense.
Photo Credit: Michael Girman
Prague Prelude
Before boarding, Michael and I spent two nights in Prague at the beautifully restored Almanac X Alcron Hotel. We’ve been to Prague before, so this time we skipped the big-ticket sights in favor of meandering through cobblestoned streets, ducking into cafés, and simply letting the city surprise us. Of course, the crowds on Charles Bridge were a reminder that Prague remains one of Europe’s hottest tickets — but getting “lost” in quieter corners was far more rewarding.
💡 Tesa’s Tips in Prague:
TONAK Hat Shop — A legendary hatmaker since 1799. A chic, timeless souvenir that’s easy to pack.
U Kroka — Comforting, home-style Czech cooking in a casual setting. Think hearty goulash, dumplings, and generous pours.
Kantýna — A carnivore’s dream. Order at the counter, watch the butchers at work, and savor some of the best cuts in the city.
Alcron Restaurant (inside the Almanac X Alcron Hotel) — Fine dining with Central European flavors reimagined. Perfect for a special evening without leaving the hotel.
Life Onboard AmaMagna
The passenger crowd skewed older (late 60s and up, mostly Americans), but AmaWaterways’ flexible style made it easy to find our groove. Each excursion offered three versions: gentle walking, regular pace, and active biking or hiking. Guests could pre-reserve bike tours, but the real treat was the freedom to switch groups on the fly.
Dining was a highlight, with four venues to choose from:
The Main Restaurant (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
Al Fresco, with river views and vegetable-forward fare
Jimmy’s Wine Bar & Restaurant, a convivial communal space named after co-founder Jimmy Murphy
The Chef’s Table, offering a seven-course set menu
Menus overlap between venues (except at the Chef’s Table), but the different ambiences kept meals interesting.
The Sun Deck was my happy place — shaded loungers, a whirlpool, even a pickleball court for the enthusiasts. The Zen Wellness Studio came complete with a juice bar and yoga, though I confess my wellness leaned more rosé than green juice.
And the crew? Exceptional. Our Cruise Manager, Radi, was the definition of above and beyond — warm, professional, and somehow everywhere at once.
The Journey Along the Danube
Passau charmed with its baroque architecture and riverside cafés.
From Linz, we opted for Český Krumlov — a fairy-tale Czech town I highly recommend if you’ve already “done” Salzburg.
💡 Tesa’s Tip in Český Krumlov: Seek out Tavern Krčma Šatlava, tucked away from the main square. Picture vaulted medieval cellars, open fire pits grilling meats and trout, and a vibe straight out of the 1400s. It was packed with Asian tourists who had clearly researched it, while we smugly stumbled in by chance. Sometimes when you travel often, you develop a nose (and eye) for the authentic without even trying.
💡 Tesa’s Tip in Linz: If you linger in Linz, stop at Joseph Grot Bakery for a poppy seed roll or a walnut bread sandwich with brie and onion jam. Humble, yes — but utterly memorable.
Melk Abbey was majestic, and I felt a special connection here. As a Benedictine monastery, it reminded me of my own childhood spent at St. Scholastica’s Academy in the Philippines, a Benedictine school. No photos are allowed inside, but its gilded halls and frescoed ceilings are pure baroque splendor.
A walk through Dürnstein was pure storybook — pastel houses, cobblestones, and the iconic blue church tower — and we ended the day in Spitz, where an intimate wine festival amid the Wachau Valley vineyards made us feel like locals stumbling into a celebration.
In Vienna, instead of rushing through palaces, we lingered over lunch at an old favorite, Zum Schwarzen Kameel. The Wiener Schnitzel was as golden and perfect as I remembered. We sat outside for almost two hours, never rushed despite the growing lunchtime crowd. It was so unlike dining in the U.S., where turning tables is a sport. For me, this was the first true vacation moment of the trip — savoring food, wine, and the art of unhurried living.
Bratislava was new for us, and it charmed with its café culture and castle views.
💡 Tesa’s Tips in Bratislava:
Slavica Design for contemporary Slovak fashion and accessories with a modern twist.
ÚĽUV Slovakia for traditional crafts and folk art — handwoven textiles, ceramics, and woodcarving. I brought home a traditional white cotton blouse with ruffled eyelet sleeves, a piece of Slovak heritage I’ll treasure.
Finally, we glided into Budapest, where we extended our stay at the Kempinski Hotel Corvinus. Having visited five years ago in sweltering heat, we relished this trip’s late-summer weather — warm, breezy, and blissfully humidity-free.
💡 Tesa’s Tips in Budapest:
Mazel Tov for Israeli-inspired dishes in a lush garden setting.
Café Gerbeaud for decadent Hungarian cakes in Belle Époque splendor.
ValiFolkart for vintage clothing, folk skirts, and embroidered blouses.
Szimpla Kertmozi, the original ruin bar — equal parts pub, art installation, and carnival of creativity.
A River of Stories
Cruising brings people together in unexpected ways. I met a couple onboard who had married just a month earlier and chose AmaMagna to renew their vows. The twist? The groom, a spry 90-year-old, was a frequent AmaWaterways guest. He and his now-wife met on a cruise years ago, bonded over wine tastings, and kept crossing paths on future voyages until friendship blossomed into romance. Their cruise manager had even attended their wedding on Zoom. Seeing them recommit on the ship where they first met was a reminder that travel isn’t just about places — it’s about connections.
Reflections & Recommendations
For a first-timer, a 7-night cruise was a wonderful introduction — but just as I was hitting my stride, it was time to disembark. If you’re considering a river cruise, I’d recommend looking at 10- or 11-night itineraries for a more relaxed pace.
What stood out most? The service, the flexibility of excursions, and the comfort of AmaMagna’s spacious suites. AmaWaterways has carved out something special in the river cruise market: a product that feels both luxurious and approachable.
For anyone curious about river cruising — especially those who love the intimacy of small-group travel but still crave creature comforts — AmaMagna is the perfect place to start.
✨ Ready to experience the magic of river cruising for yourself? Let Travels with Tesa curate the perfect AmaWaterways journey — from pre- and post-cruise stays in cities like Prague and Budapest, to handpicked shopping stops, shore excursions, and seamless transfers. After all, extraordinary experiences start with thoughtful planning.
Chain Bridge, Budapest - Photo Credit: Michael Girman