Leaving Pamplona behind, we followed the gentle roll of the Ebro Valley into the heart of La Rioja, where vineyards stretched like patchwork quilts beneath a blue, cloudless sky. The air here seems to carry a low hum—of bees in lavender, of river water moving slowly, of grapes quietly ripening in the sun.
Tradition Meets Innovation
Marqués de Murrieta, Photo Credit: Michael Girman
Our Rioja awakening began at Marqués de Murrieta. Inside the barrel-lined cellars, we were struck by the seamless interplay of tradition and innovation: cutting-edge climate control systems—temperature-regulated tanks and humidity-monitored cellars—work quietly to preserve the integrity of the wine, ensuring every vintage reflects the winery’s unmistakable character.
What truly enchanted us, though, was discovering the visionary behind the wine: María Vargas, the winery’s Technical Director since 2000. A trained agronomist and enologist, Vargas has earned accolades as “Best Winemaker in the World” in the Women in Wine & Spirits Awards 2021, among many others. Her artistry blends technical mastery with deep respect for the Ygay Estate’s character—creating wines that are both timeless and alive with personality.
Logroño: From Historic Hotel to Pintxo Passion
Later, we arrived in Logroño and checked into the charming Hotel Áurea Palacio de Correos (a converted post office, now a boutique gem just around the corner from Calle Laurel). Its vaulted ceilings and polished wood gave way to an aroma of freshness—and the thrill of knowing we were footsteps from Logroño’s pintxo pulse.
And that pulse takes shape in Calle Laurel. Lunch here was a baptism by flavor: sizzling planchas seared mushrooms and chorizo, the chatter of locals flowing into the street, and the fruity snap of crianza wine glasses being raised. One pintxo challenged me: offal from goat—carne de cabra or in Basque, ahuntz-haragia. The texture was crisp, the flavor unexpectedly like pork chicharrón. I remember closing my eyes mid-bite, surprised at how deliciously familiar it felt.
By nightfall, the town was in full swing, with plaza tables brimming with locals enjoying the warm evening air. We were in the thick of it, but slept soundly thanks to our double-glazed windows.
Modern Terroir in the City
In the afternoon, Arizcuren Bodega offered a modern counterpoint to Rioja tradition. At first, we were admittedly suspect—how could a true winery exist in such a nondescript urban building? But “don’t judge a book by its cover” proved entirely apropos. Inside, architect Javier Arizcuren transformed the space into a minimalist temple to terroir, where sleek lines frame barrels and tasting tables. We sampled expressive, small-production wines alongside bread still warm from the oven, drizzled with the peppery oil of the estate’s own groves, and finished with delicate artisanal chocolates that paired so seamlessly with the wines it felt like a chef’s kiss to the experience.
Wineries with a View
Photo Credit: Michael Girman
What makes Rioja wine special is its geography. The region is bordered by the Ebro River and shielded by the Sierra de Cantabria mountains, which block much of the rain from reaching the valley. We witnessed this ourselves one afternoon, watching rolling clouds pile dramatically against the mountaintops while the vineyards below remained bathed in sunlight.
The next day, Finca Valpiedra showed us a Rioja few travelers see—a single estate cradled in a meander of the Ebro, where the river bends like a silver ribbon through the vines. We took our cars and drove down to the vineyards, close to the river, where we could see and touch the different soils that give the wines their distinct character. Standing among those pebbled rows, we tasted elegant, mineral-driven wines while swallows looped across the horizon.
At Bodegas Baigorri, architecture and winemaking fused into one seamless experience. This glass-walled structure disappears into the hillside, concealing a gravity-flow winery beneath. We descended level by level, like guests in a secret chamber, before emerging into a dining room with panoramic vineyard views. Lunch was a slow, generous affair—Rioja lamb falling from the bone, potatoes cooked in olive oil, all anchored by a steady stream of deep, ruby reds.
After Bodegas Baigorri, we checked into Hotel Viura in the quaint village of Villabuena de Álava. The hotel is right next to the village church and square, and we spent the afternoon having a drink with a bowl of almonds, watching the locals pass their time playing cards while children darted around in play. Then, as if on cue, two majestic white horses galloped by. It was magical.
Where Past and Future Meet
The hilltop town of Laguardia greeted us with medieval gates and cobbled lanes scented faintly of wine—the smell rising from calados, underground cellars carved into the rock centuries ago. In one of these, Eduardo Hurtado welcomed us into his family’s space, its rough stone walls cool to the touch, where future private tastings will unfold among the barrels.
Then, at Marqués de Riscal, the iconic Gehry-designed winery glinted in the sun, its titanium ribbons a whimsical contrast to the ancient village beyond. Touring the cellars revealed a meticulous blend of tradition and forward-thinking winemaking, from century-old barrels to cutting-edge fermentation technology.
For us, this visit was deeply personal. Rioja is my husband Michael’s favorite wine, and Marqués de Riscal often graces our dinner table—so standing here, in the birthplace of one of his beloved bottles, felt like stepping into a living label, where innovation and heritage swirl in every glass.
Lunch at the terrace of Tradición 1860, overlooking the vineyards of Marqués de Riscal and the town of Logroño, was a delight—grilled lamb, grilled fish, and perfectly seared chuletillas, each plate arriving with a glass of wine that matched it perfectly.
The Grand Finale
Our final day was all about contrasts. At Bodegas Ysios, Santiago Calatrava’s undulating design mirrored the Sierra de Cantabria mountains behind it. Inside, precision winemaking met architectural drama, each sip paired with a panoramic view.
In the nearby Church of Santa María de los Reyes, we stepped into a medieval portal painted in colors so vivid they seemed to have been brushed yesterday.
Church of Santa María de los Reyes, Photo Credit: Michael Girman
We closed our Rioja journey at Finca La Emperatriz, a noble estate where Queen Isabella II once strolled the gardens. Michael was bowled over by their white wine—“made for red wine lovers,” he declared, with a grin that told me he meant it as the highest compliment. Lunch in the gardens, dappled in sunlight and paired with cheese boards, charcuterie, and Rioja-style fried eggs, was the perfect day and the perfect way to end our Rioja exploration. In that moment, we understood why anywhere here is good—not just for the wine, but for the way Rioja lingers long after the last glass is poured.
Finca La Emperatriz, Photo Credit: Michael Girman