Why My Third Visit to Vienna Became My Favorite
Three visits. Three completely different cities.
"The first visit is about seeing the icons. The second—and third—are when you begin to know the place."
There are cities you fall in love with instantly. And then there are cities that reveal themselves slowly, asking you to return before they share their true character.
Vienna is one of them.
My first visit was everything I had imagined. I wandered through the grandeur of Schönbrunn Palace, admired Gustav Klimt's The Kiss at the Belvedere, discovered Egon Schiele at the Leopold Museum, attended a Mozart concert in a historic church, and watched the magnificent Lipizzaner stallions perform at the Spanish Riding School. It was elegant, imperial, and unforgettable—the Vienna every first-time visitor dreams of experiencing.
My second visit came during a Danube River cruise. With only a day ashore, I found myself returning to Schwarzes Kameel, one of Vienna's great culinary institutions. Walking through its doors felt like greeting an old friend. Some places are worth discovering once. Others become part of the reason you return.
So when Vienna Tourism invited me back to experience Summer in the City, I wondered what more this remarkable city could possibly have to offer.
As it turned out, quite a lot.
What I discovered wasn't another Vienna.
It was the Vienna I had somehow missed all along.
Beyond the Postcards
This visit wasn't about checking landmarks off a list. It was about stepping behind the scenes and seeing Vienna through a different lens.
One morning began with early access to the magnificent Kunsthistorisches Museum, wandering its galleries before the crowds arrived. Standing quietly among masterpieces by Bruegel, Vermeer, Velázquez, Rubens and Caravaggio reminded me that true luxury is sometimes simply having the space to slow down and look.
At the Albertina, I was fortunate to see Albrecht Dürer's legendary The Hare, one of the most celebrated drawings in Western art and rarely exhibited because of its fragility. Nearby, MAK showcased a dazzling Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition where jewelry became art in its own right, while a private visit to Palais Liechtenstein offered an intimate look inside one of Europe's great private collections.
Albrecht Dürer's legendary The Hare
One of the week's biggest surprises came during an after-hours visit to the Ernst Fuchs Villa. Guided by historian Lorian Shabanaj through Otto Wagner's extraordinary villa, I arrived knowing very little about Ernst Fuchs. I left wondering why I hadn't discovered him sooner.
Travel, I realized once again, isn't simply about revisiting the artists we already know.
It's about discovering the ones we should have known all along.
A Different Side of Vienna
Until this trip, I had unconsciously associated Vienna with emperors, palaces, and Baroque grandeur.
Then I visited Villa Beer, completed in 1931 by architects Josef Frank and Oskar Wlach. I kept reminding myself that the house was nearly a hundred years old. Its clean, modern design felt as though it could have been built today. That's the mark of truly timeless architecture.
The same was true during our walk through the Ninth District, where elegant streets told another chapter of Vienna's story through its Jewish community, whose intellectual and cultural contributions continue to shape the city's identity.
This wasn't the Vienna found on postcards.
It was richer. More layered. More human.
The Art of Vienna
If one theme quietly connected everything I experienced during the week, it was craftsmanship.
It appeared in Dürer's brushstrokes.
Otto Wagner's architecture.
The music drifting through Vienna's vineyards.
The careful preparation of a traditional meal.
And in the hands of master jewelers.
One of my favorite discoveries was FreyWille, the iconic Viennese jewelry house celebrated for its vibrant fire-enamel creations inspired by artists including Gustav Klimt. Learning that every piece is still handcrafted in Vienna made me appreciate the artistry even more.
After much deliberation, I chose an enamel ring inspired by Klimt's Hope. It wasn't simply a beautiful piece of jewelry. It felt like bringing home a small piece of Vienna.
One of the privileges I can now offer my clients is arranging a private visit to the FreyWille workshop, where they can watch these remarkable artisans preserve one of Vienna's living artistic traditions.
Living Like a Viennese
Some of my favorite memories weren't found inside museums.
They happened around a table.
One afternoon we escaped the grand boulevards for Plauscherl am Reisenberg, perched among Vienna's vineyards high above the city. With a glass of Wiener Gemischter Satz—Vienna's signature field blend—in hand, we looked across the vines while Monika filled the afternoon with the sound of her violin.
It was one of those moments that couldn't have been choreographed any better.
Excellent wine. Wonderful company. Beautiful music. A view stretching across one of Europe's most elegant capitals.
It reminded me that Vienna isn't just a city of emperors and museums.
It's one of the few world capitals where vineyards flourish within the city limits.
Another evening brought us to Obermann's, where Mr. Obermann himself was in the kitchen. The stuffed chicken was delicious, but what I'll remember most is that it tasted like a home-cooked meal.
And, of course, no culinary visit to Vienna is complete without Tafelspitz. Since I regularly drink Brodo at home, this iconic Viennese dish at Plachutta was a home run for me. I can't wait to recreate it for my family in New York.
One Perfect Summer Evening
If I had to choose one moment that captures this entire journey, it would be our final evening.
Instead of another museum or palace, we boarded a private boat for a leisurely cruise along the Old Danube.
As the sun settled over the water, families swam from floating docks, paddleboarders glided past, kayakers drifted quietly across the river, and friends gathered along the shoreline enjoying one of Vienna's warm summer evenings.
It was peaceful.
Relaxed.
Entirely unexpected.
This wasn't the imperial Vienna of guidebooks.
It was the Vienna where people actually live.
Dinner at Das Bootshaus completed the evening, and I realized that perhaps Vienna's greatest luxury isn't found inside its palaces.
It's found in the way the city embraces everyday life.
For a city so closely associated with emperors and palaces, Vienna surprised me most with its everyday pleasures—the conversations over wine, the artisans preserving centuries-old traditions, the quiet neighborhoods, and the rhythm of life along the water.
That's the Vienna I hadn't known before.
Why My Third Visit Became My Favorite
The first visit introduced me to Vienna's icons.
The second brought me back to places I already loved.
But it was the third that revealed the city's soul—through its artisans, vineyards, hidden neighborhoods, remarkable museums, and the people who call it home.
It reminded me that the world's greatest destinations never reveal themselves all at once. They invite us back, rewarding curiosity with new discoveries each time we return.
That's why my third visit to Vienna became my favorite.
And why I already know there will be a fourth.
Tesa's Vienna Favorites
Where to Stay
One of the advantages of returning to Vienna is getting to know its hotels as well as its neighborhoods. These are the properties I recommend most often to my clients, each offering a distinct perspective on the city.
The Amauris Vienna – Boutique elegance overlooking the Vienna State Opera with beautifully appointed rooms and exceptional personalized service. A member of Relais & Chateaux.
Hotel Sacher Vienna– Vienna's legendary grand hotel, where timeless elegance and the original Sachertorte create an unforgettable stay.
Park Hyatt Vienna – Housed in a beautifully restored former bank, it features one of Europe's most remarkable swimming pools in the historic bank vault. Don't miss breakfast in the stunning dining room—the scrambled eggs with fresh truffle are unforgettable. For families or milestone celebrations, the spectacular three-bedroom rooftop penthouse with expansive terraces is among Vienna's finest accommodations.
Anantara Palais Hansen Vienna– A magnificent Ringstrasse palace blending historic grandeur with contemporary luxury.
Rosewood Vienna – Sophisticated, intimate, and home to one of Vienna's finest rooftop terraces overlooking the Old Town.
As a preferred partner with these exceptional hotels, I'm delighted to extend exclusive amenities to my clients, including complimentary breakfast, hotel credits, room upgrades when available, and VIP recognition.
Where to Dine
Café Diglas - Request a table in the hidden garden and you'll feel transported to the Austrian countryside despite being in the heart of Vienna. It's one of my favorite places for a leisurely breakfast, lunch, or afternoon coffee.
Park Hyatt Vienna – The Bank Brasserie - Breakfast here is worth planning your morning around. Served in one of Vienna's most beautiful dining rooms, the scrambled eggs with fresh truffle are reason enough to visit.
Restaurant at the Kunsthistorisches Museum - After spending the morning immersed in one of the world's finest art collections, pause beneath the museum's magnificent dome for lunch or coffee. It's one of Europe's most beautiful museum dining experiences.
Haas & Haas Tea House - Just steps from St. Stephen's Cathedral, this charming tea house offers one of Vienna's finest selections of teas from around the world—a peaceful escape from the busy city streets.
Plachutta - The definitive place to experience Vienna's iconic Tafelspitz, prepared and served with all the traditional accompaniments.
Schwarzes Kameel - A Viennese institution dating back to 1618, Schwarzes Kameel is beloved for its classic Austrian cuisine, outstanding wines, and iconic open-faced sandwiches. It's one of those places I happily return to every time I'm in Vienna.
Das Bootshaus - Arrive at sunset after a cruise on the Old Danube and experience a completely different side of the city—relaxed, contemporary, and unmistakably local.
Travel Tip from Tesa
If this is your first visit to Vienna, absolutely see Schönbrunn Palace, the Belvedere, St. Stephen's Cathedral, and the Spanish Riding School—they're iconic for a reason.
But if you're returning—or simply want to experience a deeper side of the city—venture beyond the famous landmarks. Explore the neighborhoods, visit an urban vineyard, linger over lunch in a hidden garden café, meet the artisans preserving centuries-old traditions, and end an evening on the Old Danube as the city slows down around you.
That's the Vienna I thought I knew.
Now it's the Vienna I can't wait to share with you.
Happy travels,
Tesa Totengco
Founder, Travels with Tesa
“Travel isn't about seeing more places. It's about seeing places more deeply.”
Photo by Michael Girman