On my third journey to Estonia, I finally stepped beyond Tallinn’s medieval walls and into the quiet beauty of its islands. From a smoked sauna ritual at Pädaste Manor on Muhu Island to climbing the ramparts of a 14th-century citadel on Saaremaa, this trip revealed a soulful side of Estonia few take the time to see. Add in natural skincare, handcrafted woodwork, and a vodka-paired sandwich tasting in Tallinn, and you have a destination that’s both grounding and surprising.