The morning we arrived in Honningsvåg, the weather forecast read: sunrise at 12:00 a.m., sunset at 12:00 a.m. High above the Arctic Circle, the sun neither rises nor sets — a fitting introduction to a journey where the Northern Lights didn’t need chasing. From polar nights and whale-filled fjords to quiet meals of king crab and unexpected detours, this was an Arctic experience shaped as much by timing and place as by preparation.
When I told a friend I was going to Lapland, he joked that I had traveled so much I was starting to invent places. Fair. Lapland sounds imaginary — but north of the Arctic Circle, amid husky safaris, reindeer sleighs, and glowing winter skies, it proves itself breathtakingly real.
On assignment for Travel + Leisure, Tesa Totengco boards PONANT’s Le Commandant Charcot—the world’s only luxury icebreaker—for a winter voyage through Canada’s frozen St. Lawrence. Snowshoeing, dogsledding, and Michelin-level dining redefine exploration. Equal parts adventure and elegance, this is the future of travel in the polar world.
Varanasi is not a place you simply visit — it’s a place that absorbs you. From astrology readings and silk weavers to sunrise prayers on the Ganges, Tesa and her stepson Ryan discover the city where life and death meet in divine harmony. A journey both humbling and unforgettable.
The morning we arrived in Honningsvåg, the weather forecast read: sunrise at 12:00 a.m., sunset at 12:00 a.m. High above the Arctic Circle, the sun neither rises nor sets — a fitting introduction to a journey where the Northern Lights didn’t need chasing. From polar nights and whale-filled fjords to quiet meals of king crab and unexpected detours, this was an Arctic experience shaped as much by timing and place as by preparation.
