The morning we arrived in Honningsvåg, the weather forecast read: sunrise at 12:00 a.m., sunset at 12:00 a.m. High above the Arctic Circle, the sun neither rises nor sets — a fitting introduction to a journey where the Northern Lights didn’t need chasing. From polar nights and whale-filled fjords to quiet meals of king crab and unexpected detours, this was an Arctic experience shaped as much by timing and place as by preparation.
When I told a friend I was going to Lapland, he joked that I had traveled so much I was starting to invent places. Fair. Lapland sounds imaginary — but north of the Arctic Circle, amid husky safaris, reindeer sleighs, and glowing winter skies, it proves itself breathtakingly real.
On assignment for Travel + Leisure, Tesa Totengco boards PONANT’s Le Commandant Charcot—the world’s only luxury icebreaker—for a winter voyage through Canada’s frozen St. Lawrence. Snowshoeing, dogsledding, and Michelin-level dining redefine exploration. Equal parts adventure and elegance, this is the future of travel in the polar world.
Varanasi is not a place you simply visit — it’s a place that absorbs you. From astrology readings and silk weavers to sunrise prayers on the Ganges, Tesa and her stepson Ryan discover the city where life and death meet in divine harmony. A journey both humbling and unforgettable.
Last May 13, I flew on United Airline’s inagural non-stop flight from Newark to Ponta Delgada in the Azores. The Azores are an autonomous region of Portugal. The mid-Atlantic archipelago has nine islands, four of which I’m exploring: Sao Miguel, Pico, Faial and Terceira.
In the short time I’ve been here, Azoreans have asked me how I know about their islands. They follow it up with a whisper, “This used to be a secret.”
Sete Cidades by Michael Girman
In less than six hours, the Azores can be reached on non-stop flights from Boston and New York.
The Azores were formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. There are lava fields, crater lakes, natural pools, hydrangea-lined roads and more cows than locals.
For many islanders, whaling was their tradition and source of income. It all stopped in 1986 and now companies rely on tourists who pay to go out to sea and watch whales and dolphins. In Pico, we spotted two blue whales and schools of common and striped dolphins.
Tuna, octopus salad, limpets, pineapples, volcanic white wine, passion fruit soda, Gorreana green tea, Bolo Levedo bread, grass-fed beef, Sao Jorge cheeses…these are a few of my favorite things.
There are so many well-marked hiking and biking trails in the islands. Surfers love Sao Miguel and divers love Pico. The air is clean and the pace is slow. Perfect for active and nature lovers and still under-developed to feel the authentic Azorean way of life.
Sao Miguel and Terceira have international airports and bigger hotels, mostly 4* The other islands have smaller boutique properties and availability becomes an issue during high season. A car rental is a must with an availability and price issue for last minute bookings. Do not expect mainland services and offerings. Take two steps back and appreciate the Azores for its unique beauty and qualities. It’s a safe destination. Being a small island, everyone knows everyone and Azoreans are kind and friendly people. Let’s plan your trip!
And indeed it did, for the two weeks that I spent on the island that is Ireland, both the Republic and Northern (UK) side.
The first half of my trip was hosted by a luxury DMC (Destination Management Company) and their rep company. DMC’s are local experts in a country and are my go-to when planning a client’s trip.
Adare Manor, The KClub, Lough Eske Castle
We experienced Luxury Ireland, stayed at beautiful castles, manor houses, and were enthralled with a wide variety of experiences — from a humbling visit to a tenement house, to uncasking a 50-year-old Jameson whiskey, to a helicopter ride to the Aran Islands, to foraging in the forest, to Michelin dinners, to a horse and hound welcome, to ax-throwing and falconry.
Horse and Hound Welcome at Mount Juliet Estate, Falconry at The KClub, Helicopter to the Aran Islands
The second half of my trip was more personal. Michael met me in Dublin and we spent the next week exploring Northern Ireland with Kieran, our private chauffeur and guide. We started in at the Titanic Museum in Belfast, then drove the Northern Antrim to the Giant’s Causeway, explored Derry and Donegal, and returned to Dublin for our flight home
Gleniff Horseshoe, The Dark Hedges aka King’s Road, Glenveagh National Park
There are so many reasons to visit, explore and experience Ireland. Here are some of mine:
Over 90% of the adult population are vaccinated.
Dublin is only 6 ½ hours from the East Coast. Clearing customs and immigration in Dublin makes it a very easy trip back to the US.
The Aran Islands, Giant’s Causeway, Slieve Liag, Cliffs of Mohr, Wild Atlantic Way, Northern Antrim, Gleniff Horsehoe, and Glenveagh National Park are some of the most scenic and inspiring places I’ve ever been to.
There is greater value for luxury accommodations in Ireland than in most European countries and even the US.
There are 494 golf courses on the island!!!
Irish butter, bread, and potatoes are a cut above the rest. Trust the weight I gained.
Fans of Game of Thrones, rejoice. Northern Ireland boasts 25 filming locations in addition to the Game of Thrones Studio in Belfast.
The TITANIC museum in Belfast is a must experience. I’ve since watched the movie again and see it now through a very different lens.
Learn about The Troubles, the violent, three-decade-long conflict between Protestants and Catholics/Republicans and Unionists.
Celebrate the 23-year old peace treaty by signing your name on the Peace Wall (it’s encouraged).
And lastly, the Irish. As Michael always says, “Every place is only as good as its people.”
Visit Ireland and let me plan your trip.
Can you believe we only have two more months remaining in 2021? Stay safe and healthy.
We flew to Greece on Turkish Airlines to deliberately stopover in Istanbul before heading back to New York. After 2 weeks of traveling through Greece on a sailboat, exploring Istanbul on foot was a welcome change. Like dervishes, we whirled through the city's history, culture, and cuisine all in two and a half days. Here are some of my recommended experiences.
We’d never heard of Monemvasia until a skipper in Hydra advised us to sail down the Peleponnese to Monemvasia before crossing the Myrtoan Sea to Milos. We arrived at night, having sailed from Spetses for over six hours. The next morning, we set off the explore the town.Monemvasia is a medieval castle town entirely carved out from the backside of a sea rock and literally means “single entrance”. It’s connected to the mainland by a short causeway and was occupied by the Byzantines, Franks, Venetians, and Ottomans. It remains Europe’s only castle that has never ceased being inhabited.
It is also very dreamy, fairy-tale like in an authentic way and medievally romantic.
