Serengeti in Maasai means Endless Plains
We had been driving for hours staring at the flat landscape that stretched to the horizon when we realized that indeed we were now in the Serengeti - aka Africa’s Endless Plains.
The morning we arrived in Honningsvåg, the weather forecast read: sunrise at 12:00 a.m., sunset at 12:00 a.m. High above the Arctic Circle, the sun neither rises nor sets — a fitting introduction to a journey where the Northern Lights didn’t need chasing. From polar nights and whale-filled fjords to quiet meals of king crab and unexpected detours, this was an Arctic experience shaped as much by timing and place as by preparation.
When I told a friend I was going to Lapland, he joked that I had traveled so much I was starting to invent places. Fair. Lapland sounds imaginary — but north of the Arctic Circle, amid husky safaris, reindeer sleighs, and glowing winter skies, it proves itself breathtakingly real.
On assignment for Travel + Leisure, Tesa Totengco boards PONANT’s Le Commandant Charcot—the world’s only luxury icebreaker—for a winter voyage through Canada’s frozen St. Lawrence. Snowshoeing, dogsledding, and Michelin-level dining redefine exploration. Equal parts adventure and elegance, this is the future of travel in the polar world.
Varanasi is not a place you simply visit — it’s a place that absorbs you. From astrology readings and silk weavers to sunrise prayers on the Ganges, Tesa and her stepson Ryan discover the city where life and death meet in divine harmony. A journey both humbling and unforgettable.
Imagine a volcanic caldera formed 2 million years ago and presently filled with wildlife, the Big Five, hippos, and flocks of flamingoes. The crater floor is 5,900 feet above sea level and is surrounded by a 2,000-foot rim that makes it almost impossible for animals to leave once they find their way inside. No wonder it’s called the 8th wonder of the world.
When Tanzania reopened its borders last August 2020, I began planning a safari trip. By September, I had put together a group of six first-time safari travelers. In October, we were on a plane from the US, headed for our final destination: Kilimanjaro Airport. Why Tanzania? I’d heard of the Great Wildebeest Migration and wanted to see it myself. Because there were so few tourists in Africa, I felt this was an ideal time to visit sans crowds.
We flew to Greece on Turkish Airlines to deliberately stopover in Istanbul before heading back to New York. After 2 weeks of traveling through Greece on a sailboat, exploring Istanbul on foot was a welcome change. Like dervishes, we whirled through the city's history, culture, and cuisine all in two and a half days. Here are some of my recommended experiences.