When I told a friend I was going to Lapland, he joked that I had traveled so much I was starting to invent places. Fair. Lapland sounds imaginary — but north of the Arctic Circle, amid husky safaris, reindeer sleighs, and glowing winter skies, it proves itself breathtakingly real.
On assignment for Travel + Leisure, Tesa Totengco boards PONANT’s Le Commandant Charcot—the world’s only luxury icebreaker—for a winter voyage through Canada’s frozen St. Lawrence. Snowshoeing, dogsledding, and Michelin-level dining redefine exploration. Equal parts adventure and elegance, this is the future of travel in the polar world.
Varanasi is not a place you simply visit — it’s a place that absorbs you. From astrology readings and silk weavers to sunrise prayers on the Ganges, Tesa and her stepson Ryan discover the city where life and death meet in divine harmony. A journey both humbling and unforgettable.
Panama reveals its many faces — historic Casco Viejo, highland coffee farms, black-sand beaches, and living indigenous artistry. Join us as we trace a journey of flavor, craft, and connection beyond the Canal — through a country as soft and kind as its people.
Tucked high in Boquete’s cloud forest, Hacienda Mamecillo is no ordinary dining experience. Rolando (Rolo) Chamorro and Gabriella Carlsson have transformed an abandoned coffee farm into Panama’s hidden table, where candlelight, greenhouse-grown flavors, and a seven-course tasting menu come together in an unforgettable fusion of farm, theater, and family passion.
When Tanzania reopened its borders last August 2020, I began planning a safari trip. By September, I had put together a group of six first-time safari travelers. In October, we were on a plane from the US, headed for our final destination: Kilimanjaro Airport. Why Tanzania? I’d heard of the Great Wildebeest Migration and wanted to see it myself. Because there were so few tourists in Africa, I felt this was an ideal time to visit sans crowds.
Last month, my husband and I flew to Antigua in the West Indies. It was the first Caribbean nation to open its borders since the pandemic. The island has 100,000 inhabitants and until 1981 was a British colony. Formerly a sugar-producing island, it now relies heavily on tourism. Learn about why I recommend Antigua as a safe destination for your travels.
We flew to Greece on Turkish Airlines to deliberately stopover in Istanbul before heading back to New York. After 2 weeks of traveling through Greece on a sailboat, exploring Istanbul on foot was a welcome change. Like dervishes, we whirled through the city's history, culture, and cuisine all in two and a half days. Here are some of my recommended experiences.
We’d never heard of Monemvasia until a skipper in Hydra advised us to sail down the Peleponnese to Monemvasia before crossing the Myrtoan Sea to Milos. We arrived at night, having sailed from Spetses for over six hours. The next morning, we set off the explore the town.Monemvasia is a medieval castle town entirely carved out from the backside of a sea rock and literally means “single entrance”. It’s connected to the mainland by a short causeway and was occupied by the Byzantines, Franks, Venetians, and Ottomans. It remains Europe’s only castle that has never ceased being inhabited.
It is also very dreamy, fairy-tale like in an authentic way and medievally romantic.
